Preparation delivery

What do you need, what must be present in your house
• You must buy or make a drop box (minimal dimensions 50cmx50cm), reckon with your breed’s size and make sure that the drop box is neat.

• A huge box is also possible and you can also place several boxes on different places in the house, but make sure that it doesn’t concern fruit boxes since they might be very dangerous and unhealthy due to the sprays on it!
• A large bench ( a metal inside cat basket!) is also possible but make sure that you place a blanket over it which reaches the ground so that it is closed and cosy but especially draught-free.
• A couple of old flannel sheets, a suitable blanket and/or cellulose cloths which you place on the bottom of the drop box, box or bench. Cellulose cloths are very handy; they are also used in hospitals, homes for the elderly as mats for amongst others: incontinence, disinfection and care of wounds etc. They are hygienic and absorb a lot of liquid. The surface remains feeling dry (unless the cloth gets too wet) and they have a plastic bottom layer so that the liquid cannot start leaking.

You can buy them in most pharmacies, but you can also purchase them online with several authorities. Don’t use terry toweling because kittens can get stuck with their nails in the loops and they might hurt themselves. Whatever you use, always regularly clean it during and after the delivery so that it remains hygienic. And make sure that the sheet, blanket or cloth is big enough so that it covers the whole ground and the kittens will not end up next or under it (choking hazard).
• Place the box or bench definitely in time on the delivery place and have the cat get used to the drop box two weeks in advance so that she will get time to approve it. Attention: some cats refuse the spot you choose….you can then try to place the box or bench on another spot.

• Make sure that you have special kitten milk before the delivery so that you can feed the kittens or give additional feeding if necessary.
• Some cats don’t like priers and prefer to be alone with their kittens (like for example in the bedroom), but most cats prefer a familiar room where they love to be (for example the living room). Always make sure that the room isn’t too crowded (most cats don’t like that when they have just given birth to kittens). This spot always needs to be warm and not draughty. You can buy this milk at the veterinarian, some pet shops have it and you can also buy it online. There are many different brands and forms (powder and ready for use).

• Also make sure you have feeding bottles and nipples or ask your veterinarian for a suitable pipette or syringe (of course without needle).
• The surroundings & especially the spot where the kittens will be born must have a temperature of about 26 degrees, because kittens should be warm enough since they aren’t able yet (just like babies) to regulate their own body temperature and they can cool down fast (which might lead to death). You can possibly use a warmth lamp (infrared, 250watt) or a warmth mat. Place a thermometer in the box/bench so that you can check the temperature. If you use a warmth lamp, make sure it is only placed half above the box/bench so that the cat also has a cooler place. If you use a warmth mat, make sure that it only covers a part of the bottom below the sheet, blanket or cloth because kittens do like warmth but it might be unpleasant for the mother; it therefore is sensible that you make sure that the cat can lie next to the mat while she feeds/cares for her kittens.
• At delivery you make sure that you have the following things around:
- a warm/not too soft towel (in order to rub the kittens dry & to stimulate their breathing.
- a sterile little pair of scissors (you make it sterile by for example immersing it in alcohol, or placing it in boiled water in advance)
- a sterile cord (for example thick sewing thread)
- phone number of the veterinarian
- possibly a mucous sucker
- Clean cloths, sheets, blankets so that you can clean the drop place during orafter delivery.
- You can ask your veterinarian for a means in order to stimulate the breathing of kittens which have a hard time in the beginning. We used to use “Respirot” for this but this is hardly available anymore.
- If you think/know that you will not be able to distinguish the kittens, make sure you have something available with which you can “mark” the kittens, like nail polish. You can use one color and “mark” a different paw every time or you can use different colors.
- Make sure you have a precise balance (preferably a digital one), because it is very important to know exactly how much the kittens weigh, and how much they gain or lose weight each day.
- There are more interesting things which you might purchase like for example Nutridrops, which help the kittens if they have a difficult start. And there are more things but don’t exaggerate; there are many things which you will not use at all and appear to be an useless investment afterwards.

The delivery.
Experiencing a delivery is one of the nicest things in the world, it is moving and miraculous. It strengthens the bond between you and your cat, it is therefore worth experiencing it, but there are also some additional things you should know.
• Just before the cat will give birth, she will get restless, she might suffer from hard bellies (starting contractions) and she often will start tossing about on the spot where she wants to deliver or will deliver. In the meantime she will lose mucus. Attention: you will not always see it, because some cats will swallow it. She might also secrete clear liquid through her vagina, this means that she has dilation and that the delivery will soon take place. A fast delivery will take place within 24 hours now..

• If the cat is pretty restless, it often helps to reassure him by talking calmly to her, hugging her, stroking her belly (if she likes it) and she often will become calm just by your presence. Stay calm during and after the delivery, in this way she will also feel more at ease. Cats sense stress very well and they often get more restless. Stay as calm and relaxed as possible, in this way you will be a better helper in case of problems!
• Make sure you have all things you might need around you so that you are ready if the delivery might suddenly start. Also put ready a ball pen and piece of paper so that you can start weighing each kitten immediately (after the mother has finished licking them and has recovered a bit)
• If the cat’s delivery starts, you stay as calm as possible. If she doesn’t want to lie on the spot you chose you calmly bring her back to this spot; if she keeps on returning to another spot, let her deliver there (make sure it is warm there, draught-free and make sure that there is a sheet or cloth which can absorb the amniotic fluid and on which the kittens can lie. When all kittens have been born you can carefully bring her with her kittens to the other spot, she will often stay here now.
• If she keeps refusing the other spot, don’t cause her (extra) stress then and find another spot where you can place the box or bench preferably on a spot she likes or in its neighborhood. Otherwise there is a chance that she will start dragging her kittens and will keep moving them (sometimes even spreading them out on different spots) and you should avoid that, because the kittens can cool down.

• Many cats don’t need any help at all, but appreciate your presence. If the cat doesn’t like it that you are so close, choose another spot then (a bit further away) but stay in the room, so that you can intervene if necessary. And make sure that you have washed your hands.
• If a kitten is born, it is in a film; mostly the cat licks/bites this film even before the kitten is fully born and she will lick the face of her kitten. But if the kitten is born and she won’t do it herself, you should break the film yourself (you can do this with your fingers and you shouldn’t use a pair of scissors)
• Observe if she starts licking her kitten herself (this also stimulates breathing) and let her do this if she wants it.
- If she doesn’t lick her kitten herself you should do it so that the kitten will not die. Take a warm (not too soft) towel, place the kitten in your hand, hold it tight but carefully and clean the nose and the mouth so that mucus will not be left behind and the airways are free. Often a mucous sucker is used for this (especially with kittens which have a bad start) but it doesn’t have to be used always. You then start rubbing the kitten dry; do this carefully but with a light pressure, in this way the breathing gets stimulated and the fur gets less wet so that the kitten doesn’t become cold.
• You will also notice if the mother will bite the umbilical cord. Pay attention to it that she will not bite it too close to the belly (about 3 cm is enough).
- If she doesn’t bite the umbilical cord herself, you must do this. Be careful however because such an umbilical cord is very thin and the kitten’s navel is very fragile. Make sure that you don’t pull the umbilical cord. Hold the umbilical cord and push the blood in the umbilical cord a bit towards the placenta (away from the kitten’s belly) and carefully cut the umbilical cord then (about 3-5 cm from the belly) with your nails or with the sterile pair of scissors. Some people prefer the nails, others the pair of scissors since the umbilical cord is very tough. You can also first make the umbilical cord empty, tie it off with a sterile thread and cut the umbilical cord just beyond the thread.
-In the meantime, place the kitten with its mother again or place it on a warm spot (warmth lamp or warmth mat) so that the kitten will not start super cooling. It depends on what your cat allows and what is the best (each situation is different). If the female cat wants her kittens with her or if she finds everything ok, preferably leave the kittens with their mother. The kitten will usually start searching a teat. Breastfeeding promotes the contractions, because the womb will contract then. Watch the kitten if the delivery continues so that the cat will not lie on the kitten.
• Place the placenta with the mother, so that she can eat it. The placenta contains many nutrients which are especially important for the first mother’s milk and it also gives the cat extra energy.
• The placenta often comes at the same time as the kitten, but it can also come out a few minutes or half an hour later. Closely watch the placentas so that you know that there are just as many placentas as kittens. If the cat has given birth and some placentas have been left behind and don’t come out after one hour, you must contact the veterinarian.

• Some cats need help with every kitten, so if necessary you repeat the whole process like mentioned with all other kittens. Give your cat the possibility to do it herself. Only intervene if necessary.
• Amniotic fluid must be clear in principle. It shouldn’t’ smell dirty. The amniotic fluid might be a bit green; in that case the first kitten needs to be born within one hour. If that is not the case you must call your veterinarian. • Mostly the next kitten will come soon, sometimes within a couple of minutes, but often within half an hour and sometimes even 2 hours after the birth of the first kitten. If it takes longer you might call your veterinarian just to be sure, her contractions might not be strong enough or the kitten is stuck. The veterinarian can check her and if necessary give something which provokes the contractions.
• If a kitten doesn’t start breathing, despite of all the effort and care of the female cat (and help from you), there is still hope left….Try to stimulate the breathing with medicines like Respirot or Nutridops. If you don’t have this or these means don’t help you can start “unfolding” the kitten: Place the kitten in your hand and hold it with both hands so that the whole kitten is supported. Also make sure that you support the neck and head (it might not start swinging or wiggling). You then stretch your arms brief and to the point back and forth (above your head & down between your legs). Repeat this a couple of times and often the lungs are free from possible mucus and/or amniotic fluids then and because of the shock reaction provoked during stretching the kitten often starts breathing spontaneously. If this doesn’t help, little hope is left….This might have several causes. The kitten might have been stuck, or swallowed too much amniotic fluid or already died during contractions because the delivery took too long.
• Contact your veterinarian if the cat has strong continuous contractions during more than 30 minutes or if the cat keeps pushing too long and the kitten doesn’t come out. The veterinarian can check why it takes so long and what obstructs the kitten’s birth.
• If the cat is pushing longer than 15 minutes and the kitten is already visible, take a face cloth (neat and dry) then, or a clean tea towel and take the head or bottom (depending on the position) and carefully help the kitten a little while she pushes. If you feel too much resistance, immediately stop and call the veterinarian. Attention: don’t pull too strong, don’t pull only one or both paws, only help when the kitten pushes (not between contractions) and pull toward the cat’s hind legs (a bit down). These things are very important! If you don’t dare to help yourself or if you are not sure you are doing well, you’d better immediately call the veterinarian.

• Kittens can lie in 3 positions; one position is easier concerning delivery than the other.
- Head presentation (the normal position, the head comes first)
- Breech presentation (bottom comes first)
- and the breech presentation in which only one or none of both hind legs is directed to the back. This is the hardest for the female cat.
• If the delivery is difficult, sometimes a Caesarean section is the only solution, some veterinarians don’t want you to stay with the delivery, other veterinarians find it ok.

• Also contact your veterinarian if:
- The cat starts vomiting,
- The cat gets very restless,
- The cat pants very loud,
- The cat breaths too fast,
- The cat suddenly gives a weakened impression,
- The cat produces a secretion which has an abnormality color (and/or smell)
- If it turns out that the cat has a bleeding.
• In case you have doubts or in case you are uncertain you immediately call your veterinarian, you’d better don’t take unnecessary risks.
• With each birth you weigh the kitten and you register the birth weight. If you cannot distinguish the kittens you’d better immediately mark them with nail polish.
• After the delivery the cat will still flow a little (normal loss of blood). This can take a couple of days, closely pay attention to this, the color may be red or brown and clear (if flowing decreases). Also regularly check if the secretion doesn’t smell dirty. If this is the case you contact your veterinarian since a possible infection might be present. The flowing normally lasts a couple of days, but if it takes longer than 10 days you must immediately contact your veterinarian.
• Kittens must gain 10 grams per day, sometimes it is a bit less and on other days it is more. If a kitten doesn’t gain or lose weight one day, you shouldn’t panic, but the kitten needs to gain weight then next daythen. If the kitten gains weight laboriously you’d better start giving him additional feeding. It is often advised to give the strongest kittens additional feeding and to have the weakest kittens drink at their mother’s. In principle this is a good rule, but if it concerns kittens which are too weak and/or don’t have good sucking reflexes you’d better completely devote yourself to these kittens because if all kittens lie at their mother’s, the weakest will often don’t get a chance to grasp a teat since the other kittens push him away.
• Kittens with a weak or no sucking reflex at all must be checked by the veterinarian. He must check the palate because there is a chance that the kitten has an open palate.
• If all kittens from the nest don’t gain weight (well) the cat probably has too few milk and you should call the veterinarian. You can start giving them additional feeding. If you must start feeding the kittens yourself completely, you must dot his every 2 hours (24 hours a day).
• We advise to give the cat kitten food also during the breastfeeding period. Kitten food contains much more calcium which is important for the cat. The cat produces a lot of milk for her kittens and because of that her own calcium content will decrease. She can get “Eclampsie”, which is a milk disease. This only occurs during the breastfeeding period due to a lack of calcium. The cat will be very restless then and very panting and behavior changes might occur and she can have symptoms which resemble attacks. Solution: a calcium injection and adding extra calcium to the food. But you’d better avoid such things by giving her valuable food so that she has nutritious milk for her kittens and enough energy for herself. If the cat has had Eclampsie she must have extra calcium in case she gets pregnant again (from the start of the pregnancy). And if the Eclampsie would come back again she’d better not get pregnant again.
• Keep in mind that a cat will soon be on heat again after a delivery. Keep her inside therefore or keep her away from tomcats which haven’t been castrated, so that she doesn’t get pregnant immediately again. This would be very unhealthy for her, since her body hasn’t got the time to recover yet and her resistance will not be optimal and there is a chance that she will cast out her present nest.